Ganga Aarti: Story of Flames on the Sacred Ghats
But when the sun sinks below
the western horizon, casting a golden hue over Ganges' waters, Dasaswamedh ghat
comes to life. It's a dance of devotion, an
offering to the river goddess Ganga. An energy flows through the
labyrinthine streets and mingles with the exuberant life on the ghats.
To the sounds of Bhajan music,
a ceremony attended with determination and fervor is enacted in solemn
reverence. The ceremony, put on by
pandits--Sanskrit scholars of the revered Brahmin caste--takes place in front
of a wooden stage arranged facing the sacred Ganges.
The community assembles--the citizens, pilgrims from distant lands, and the revered sadhus who for this function set aside their ascetical practices temporarily. The pandits blow the conch shells hot amidst the celestial symphony, sending negativity away and calling purity in.
When the dance begins, the incense
sticks pirouette is an eye-catching one; candelabra spin around and lanterns of
fire ascend into the sky. Seated on benches at the ghat
square or nestled in boats along riverbanks, the congregation watches as their
eyes fill with confidence and wonder. Young souls express themselves with
mobile phones, sending live performances to distant relatives.
Every flickering flame represents a dream, an entreaty entrusted to Mother Ganga. While the currents take these dreams downstream, believers await their fulfillment. Hundreds of flames dance on the surface of the river, a magical scene in which collective hopes are afloat.
After the ceremony, a man approaches with glittering eyes. Tenderly, he puts the sacred tilak (a mark of divine blessing) upon his foreheads. The strokes of ivory melt the resistance in the skin. Here, religion becomes the unifying tongue; everyone's invited. Smashing distinctions of race and nation.
But a nuanced dance of generosity plays out as the faithful offer sugar candies known as prasad, which represent well-being. In the crowd, a little girl who was like a small light of kindness handed out votive candles. A gesture in kind, an offer put into her basket, and a nod beyond cash.
While the pandits leave the
stage, believers rush to touch the fire believing them to be the absolutely
condensed spirit of the river goddess. As sugar candies are passed
from hand to hand, it's like a communal host, as sacred for Christians when
serving Christ.
In this river of devotion,
lines are crossed and the ancient queen Ganga showers her beauty upon them all. The air is fragrant with the
lingering smell of sandalwood. As the crowd dissolves, faces smile in response
to common blessings received at Ganga Aarti--a symphony comprising a dance of
fire on Varanasi's sacred ghats.
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